Blazing a Trail

The “Hippie Trail” and Rif Mountains are just a few examples of Morocco’s magic

Back in the day, Paul Bowles, Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones all spent time in Morocco, a popular stop on the infamous 1960s Hippie Trail. William S. Burroughs, who heavily indulged in the ancient cannabis confection majoun while living in Tangiers, even made the Moroccan city a main setting in his epic novel Naked Lunch. Instability during the so-called Years of Lead caused setbacks, but the African country regained its footing in the ’90s, and the New York Times declared “A ‘Hippie Trail’ Stop Goes Mainstream in Morocco” in 2006. The country’s popularity is on the rise, and cannabis culture is a major attraction.

Lonely Planet: Morocco writes that the U.S. is the only country to produce more cannabis, and the United Nations says Afghanistan only recently surpassed Morocco as the largest producer of hashish. Today, travelers walking Morocco’s magical streets will repeatedly hear offers of kif or kief, which is local slang for cannabis and hashish. Those who medicate often head to Chefchaouen in the northeastern Rif Mountains, which is where the bulk of the cannabis is grown. Hikers can trek past enormous kif fields, though the response from cannabis cultivators can range from direct sales to throwing rocks.

Production in the Rif region dates back to the 15th century and was tolerated up through King Mohammed V, who took the throne following independence from France and Spain in 1956. Cannabis became illegal in the 1970s, and the U.S. and European Union continue to put pressure on the government to eradicate fields and punish offenders. In 2003, the U.K. Guardian claimed that cannabis is unofficially Morocco’s top foreign-currency earner, so that annoying Starbucks hipster will probably shave his crusty beard before the Moroccan government seriously cracks down on kif. Still, what crackdown does exist can adversely affect careless tourists.

Here are the kif-related rules for tourists: Absolutely do not try to take cannabis out of the country, even on boats to Spain, as the international pushback from border seizures forces Morocco to punish “smuggling” with severity. Inside the country, only carry enough that can be easily tossed at the first sign of risk. Police officers tend to excuse tourists with a fine, but jail time is a possibility. Try to avoid buying from city street vendors as they often overcharge or inform the police, and do not buy while already medicated because hustlers like to take advantage of the potentially paranoid. Instead, be proactive in connecting with like-minded locals (taxi drivers do not count) who can provide assistance in purchases or invites to partake in safe settings. Cannabis culture is huge in Morocco, and locals might even smoke publically in bars, but tourists should always exercise caution and common sense.

The Rif Mountains will be high on many readers’ list, but where else should an erstwhile traveler visit? Film buffs might enjoy Rick’s Café in Casablanca, while fans of the Beat Generation should hit Tangiers. Riad-filled Marrakesh is the country’s international tourism calling card and the inspiration for Crosby, Stills and Nash’s “Marrakesh Express,” while the rock archways of Legzira make it the country’s most beautiful beach. Several national parks also dot the Atlantic coastline, but those willing to get really sandy can head south to experience the Western Sahara desert by camelback.

Just as Turkey straddles Europe and Asia, Morocco is a gateway country for Europe and Africa, and its resurgence continues to attract Western tourists. Moreover, it is an excellent place to experience the kif that inspired many of the 20th-century’s most brilliant literary and musical minds.

www.visitmorocco.com