The Paris of the East: Eastern Europe’s best kept secret

As far as nicknames go, Budapest could have done worse than
“The Paris of the East.” A ridiculous list of other cities also claimed that title,
but in the 19th century, the Hungarian city was truly in the midst of its
Golden Age. The recently formed Austro-Hungarian Empire was the second largest
in Europe, and Budapest served as one of its dual capitals. For a generation,
the country’s economic growth outpaced England and France, and the city broke
out the hammers and nails creating glorious constructions like the Neo-Gothic
Parliament building. Then came two World Wars and an Iron Curtain. The country
regained its freedom in 1990, but it will take time to restore its former
glory. Still, what modern Budapest lacks in touristy shine it makes up for in
raw energy.

A soft curve in the Danube River separates the city with the
upscale Buda Hills to the west and the urban Pest to the east, and there is
much to do on both sides. The Hungarian wine culture dates back millennia, and
grape harvest festivals usually take place in September. The city will also host
its first-ever Oktoberfest this month, followed by the Budapest Autumn Festival
in late October.

During its 19th-century heyday, Budapest also had a strong culinary
culture. The top talent fled the country in the 1950s to get away from the
Soviets, but travelers can still enjoy Hungarian hits like goulash (stew),
nokedli (gnocchi-like dumplings), meat-stuffed-meat and most any dish buried in
paprika. Notable restaurants include the Michelin-starred Onyx and Costes, the
gallery/café Spinoza and the boat-based Spoon that floats opposite the Buda
Castle.

Fun-Filled Facts:

-Gustave Eiffel designed and built the Budapest-Nyugati
Railway Terminal, which opened in 1877, before going on to construct the Eiffel
Tower and complete the Statue of Liberty.

-Margaret Island, which sits in the Danube River between
Buda and Pest, belonged to various religious orders before the conquering Turks
turned it into a harem.

-Wes Anderson chose the Hungarian capital for Grand Budapest Hotel because the city
had a “time-warp feeling” to it, but he shot the film in Berlin.

-The original unseen ending to the film World War Z—a massive zombie battle in Moscow’s Red Square—was shot
in Budapest.

If You Go:

Cannabis use is strictly prohibited in Hungary so acquire
and medicate with caution. If caught, the Hungarian Civil Liberties Union
(TASZ) says the courts typically make offenders go to treatment, not jail. The editors
of Cannabis Kultusz magazine suggest
the police often let people go, but tourists may need to cough up a few
thousand “thank you” forints. Fortunately,
the local currency trades at around 240 to a dollar.

Time to Go: Autumn.

Weather: Cool and
calm.

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Budget: $$$$$$