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Old Major

Old Major, one of the hottest spots in Denver’s Highland neighborhood, is also one of its newest. Chef Justin Brunson, an Iowa transplant, brought his love of hog from the Hawkeye State to Denver, where house cured meats and reclaimed wood walls meet upscale flourishes like

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Old Major, one of the hottest spots in Denver’s Highland neighborhood, is also one of its newest. Chef Justin Brunson, an Iowa transplant, brought his love of hog from the Hawkeye State to Denver, where house cured meats and reclaimed wood walls meet upscale flourishes like an open kitchen and iPad drink menus. You’ll be tempted to fill up on one of their fresh baked pretzel rolls, served with a mustard butter you have to try to believe. For those who are seriously medicated, we’d recommend you eat an entire pig. Seriously. The Nose to Tail plate ($29) gives you a bit of everything: a giant confit rib, equal portions of belly and chop, a smoky “city ham” and crispy pig ear spears topped with a simple rhubarb jus. Brunson knows his way around the catch of the day, too. The Halibut ($30) manages to pull off a marriage of fish and potatoes like only an Iowan can, with a hearty risotto that’s lightened by a pea shoot salad and sake-roe beurre blanc. Make reservations in advance, as they’ve been packing them in like a modern farm, not Orwell’s. (Jake Browne)

oldmajordenver.com

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