Water World

Laos’ natural beauty includes waterfalls, lazy rivers and swimming holes

Story and Photos by Dennis Argenzia and Grace Cayosa

Landlocked Laos, whose previous worldwide acclaim was for its thriving opium trade and unexploded military ordnance, has slowly rebuilt its reputation and now rivals surrounding Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam as a Southeast Asian travel gem: beautiful, friendly and affordable. And although northern Laos has historically attracted the majority of tourists, southern Laos—with its intriguing combination of river islands, coffee plantations, cooler temperatures and waterfalls—has also begun to steadily draw its own visitors.

If hammocks and lazy rivers are your speed, southern Laos has the perfect spot for you: Si Phan Don, or 4,000 Islands. Located in the far south near the Cambodian border, Si Phan Don is an archipelago of thousands of tiny islands in the Mekong River. The two most tourist-friendly islands—Don Det and Don Khon—are accessible from the mainland via motorboat and are connected to each other by bridge. Don Det revels in its laidback, hippy vibe, while larger Don Khon is a bit more bustling, but both have the same effect: relaxation. Whether you are stretched out on a hammock, drifting downstream in an inner tube, gliding along red dirt paths on a bicycle or catching a glimpse of the rare Irrawaddy dolphin during a guided tour, chilling out is always the name of the game.

On Don Det, marijuana in various forms is readily available, either through individuals, or more likely, at one of many north-end restaurants that offer “happy” beverages, dishes and even made-to-order special occasion cakes! However, while recreational green use by foreigners and locals in southern Laos can hardly be called “underground,” Laotian law treats drug possession very seriously, largely due to its history as one-third of the infamous “Golden Triangle.” Therefore, while you might be able to get away with paying several hundred dollars to a policeman, possession of up to 22 pounds of marijuana is legally punishable by a maximum fine of $2,500 and 10 years imprisonment, and for quantities over 22 pounds, punishment is death. So, as always, exercise common sense to avoid any legal entanglements.

When you’re ready to trade your hammock for a motorcycle, it’s time to check out the Bolaven Plateau. Named after the Laven ethnic group, this elevated region was once a volcano and now varies between 3,300 and 4,430 feet above sea level. The cooler climate and abundant rainfall on the plateau are perfect conditions for the cultivation of thousands of Robusta and Arabica coffee plants, which produce the majority of Laos’ coffee.

In addition to traditional coffee, some plantations also offer a more “naturally” processed coffee known locally as “kopi luwak.” Affectionately called “weasel poo coffee,” this specialty beverage is the result of coffee berry consumption by wild civets, whose droppings of undigested beans are (thoroughly) cleaned and roasted, and are said to have a much richer taste due to enzymatic action inside the civet’s stomach. Truly, something only for coffee aficionados!

Aside from the caffeine-rich agriculture, the plateau also features several waterfalls, including the stepped waterfall of Tat Lo and its impressive neighbor, Tat Suong; the voluminous curtains of Tat Cham Pee and double waterfall of Tat Fane; and the spectacular but hidden 395-foot drop of Tat Katamtok. Some have swimming holes that attract locals and tourists alike, and the usual care should be taken when venturing near a waterfall’s edge, as virtually none have protective barriers.

All of Bolaven Plateau’s sights can be visited by motorcycle on an increasingly popular multi-day route called the “Bolaven Big Loop.” Travelling clockwise, it takes you from the city of Pakse, to Ban Beng, then Sekong, followed by Attapeu. From Attapeu, head east to Paksong along one of the most scenic sections of the entire route. While in Paksong, stop at Mr. Koffie’s shop for a free sample of his freshly roasted coffee (and free Wi-Fi!), and then drop by the Bolarven guesthouse, home to a pair of highly vocal gibbons. After Paksong, return to Pakse.

The Bolaven Big Loop is approximately 245 miles long and can be completed in a minimum of three days. Road conditions vary from very good (between Ban Beng and Sekong) to unbelievably rough (the last six miles approaching Paksong), and can be treacherous during the rainy season.

www.tourismlaos.org/web/index.php, www.bolaven.com.