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Little Carmine’s

If you’re a Denverite, there’s a good chance you already know about Carmine’s on Penn. The old-school Italian institution has been serving family-style southern Italian plates for years. But in the recent months, they’ve added a petite sandwich annex—Little Ca

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If you’re a Denverite, there’s a good chance you already know about Carmine’s on Penn. The old-school Italian institution has been serving family-style southern Italian plates for years. But in the recent months, they’ve added a petite sandwich annex—Little Carmine’s—right next to the original restaurant. The menu is inspired by the fare served next door, creating what they call Carmine’s–Style Sandwiches. Spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmesan, veal caprese, the kind of dishes you would be fed by an overbearing yet kindly Italian grandma, only nestled inside of a buttery, garlicky roll. Food-wise, they’ve nailed it. The sandwiches are outstanding. Unfortunately, there’s a small problem. The cheapest sub on the menu is $10. Some people say the sandwich must be solely a low-cost utility food, meant to fill the belly as cheaply as possible. Others, like the people at Carmine’s—and I—understand that to achieve perfection you have to spring for the best ingredients and treat them with care, which means a more expensive (but more delicious) sandwich. So, yes, it’s a little pricey. But who cares? It’s so tasty, and the sandwiches are enormous. The Spaghetti and Meatballs Hoagie (with noodles!) is wonderful, and the Short Rib Sandwich is really something special. So in the final analysis, Little Carmine’s: Really, really, really good $10 sandwiches. (Aaron Urist)

www.carminescolorado.com/little-carmines

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