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Le Central

When selecting a reasonably priced restaurant, French is usually near the bottom of the list. Between the hors d’ouvres, the wine, the entrée and the inevitable dessert, it’s a recipe that empties the wallet more than it fills the stomach. But Le Central, a casual,

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When selecting a reasonably priced restaurant, French is usually near the bottom of the list. Between the hors d’ouvres, the wine, the entrée and the inevitable dessert, it’s a recipe that empties the wallet more than it fills the stomach. But Le Central, a casual, subtly hip bistro in Denver’s Golden Triangle, is different. Sit down, and take a look at the menu. Sure, it looks great. Duck Confit, Onion Soup and Bouillabaisse—everything you’d expect. But look closer and you’ll find the revelation. See those little numbers next to the items? That’s the price. See how they don’t make you lose your appetite? A three-course tasting menu which would ordinarily run at least $60 magically shrinks to half that cost. Le Central’s success is not only that they serve great food—which they absolutely do—but that they make that food accessible to everybody by removing the prohibitive cost usually associated with this type of restaurant. No matter what else you order, get the Moules Frites. A colossal bowl of mussels cooked with white wine, garlic and shallots, accompanied by crisp, perfect, bottomless fries. Yes, unlimited fries. As in they’ll bring you more if you ask. For free. It’s only $11.95, and enough to share. Which means you’ll have money left over for one of their delightful desserts to cap off a fantastic, affordable meal. (Aaron Urist)

www.lecentral.com

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